Collection Spotlight: David Koma AW17

A seemingly combative aesthetic occupied David Koma’s Fall 2017 collection. Of Georgian descent, Koma debuted inherited references of his ethnicity. With a semblance of culture, the starting point was depicted from a male war dress called the chokha, accompanied by a beautiful dance called the Kartuli– a dramatic depiction of gender confliction. Koma informed reporters backstage that such garments were fashioned in his home country. Having never referenced such influence in previous collections, it seems more fitting than ever to do so in a time where a sense of ethnic awareness has reached an elevated pride.

Koma’s original inspiration was further translated into a volley of body-con visions. Mongolian muff and shaggy llama collars and hems bounced throughout the presentation as a frontrunning collection detail. Exaggerated necklines showcased plunging, deep V lines. Lines were experimentally expanded with a series of asymmetrical cuts. Diagonal-cut dresses, skirts and parkas walked the collection in hues of olive, tobacco-tinted orange and ink black. Grosgrain ribbons and Plexiglas grids proved effective in their deliberate representation of masrebi (a Georgian interpretation of bullets).

Straps served as combative detailing, whilst slim cut suits housed a distinctively graphic, slightly futuristic aesthetic. Koma’s high energy collection played with the reimagination of camouflage in a perhaps more conventional way. Floral camouflage was manifested in metallic macramé and lace. In speaking to the undeniable craft and creative of David Koma, the collection in all of its masculinity was concluded a bold, feminine depiction of women in a once spoken, man’s world.  

About the Author

Jennifer Paccione is a fashion editor who shares her time between New York City and Milan. She has been featured and published with respected magazines internationally in various languages. She currently acts as contributing editor for publications including Bulgari Magazine, The Fashionable Lampoon, Fashion to Max and RedMilk Magazine, whilst having contributed for NYLON and Editorialist. Alongside journalism, Jennifer freelances as a social media and digital marketing advisor, having already worked with brands such as Dolce & Gabbana, Alberta Ferretti and Philosophy, among many. Follow her on Instagram @jenniferpaccione