Designers to Watch: KOVA Jewels

There are a lot of jewelry brands popping up here and there (and everywhere) lately. In fact it seems like we can’t open our emails without another pitch for new brands to keep an eye out for. However, during couture week this July, I was fortunate enough to attend an appointment with Katie Kova of KOVA Jewelry and was truly inspired by the designer’s first ever presentation of her intricate and architecturally influenced fine jewelry pieces.

Launched in July 2015, the reference system that Katie Kova works with is ample: All walks of Russian art, culture and design inform the collection but with a perspective is transcultural and modernist. Which makes sense as this designer to watch studied finance and business all over (Russia, Switzerland and Great Britain) which not only allowed for a plethora of inspiration but laid the foundation to her visions of the KOVA brand.
The key premise of the brand is that new frontiers are still discoverable in fine jewelry and thanks to the fusing of design concepts – research, development, concept and creative challenge – with wearable realities, they have certainly gone above and beyond this goal. Launching KOVA took more than two years of dreaming, planning, preparing, sampling, trying and testing. And while these couture cocktail rings have made for a fabulous base, Kate’s dream is to expand but in the right way, “Eventually, the Haute Couture Collection will not only include cocktail rings, but also cuffs, necklaces and earrings. For me, it´s not about the number of pieces but about the balance and cohesion of the collection. The message has to be crystal clear.”
For this collection, inspiration came from the creative challenge of developing a collection around one style – the cocktail ring and its multiple possibilities – as well as Russian Suprematism and its sensational and everlasting legacy on modern graphics. Each of the six rings is made up of metal framework (whether it be 18K white, black or rose gold) with corresponding colored pave diamonds. Handmade by artisans in London, each piece takes three meticulous months to be made and features a distinct gemstone which is custom colored and intended to enhance each ring´s own visual ‘soul’. And while three months for one ring may seem like a extended period of time for one piece of jewelry, Katie has the perfect quote to help you pass the time, “As we told our first client, waiting is an essential part of the Couture experience.


About the Author

Jillian Magenheim is the Editorial Director and Director of Partnerships for She is also a digital media consultant for various fashion and beauty brands. You can follow her thoughts on Twitter @Magenhaz and on Instagram @jillianrose_m