Fall 2012 New York Fashion Week: Philosophy

– By Leena Sanzgirl –

Simply put, the show was spectacular. A myriad of looks rolled out in an impossibly ladylike palette of cream, gray, and camel suiting punctuated by stunning silver and lacquer accents.  The models stepped on and off the runway via escalators, a detail that allowed the audience to feel as if we were voyeuristically watching the very woman who would wear these beautiful clothes strutting through her day. It was all so very striking, so precise, so simultaneously innovative and classic, that had sunlight cast too much light on the runway, the collection would have transgressed the paradoxical line of being ethereally current to being angelically unattainable. And more importantly, we in the audience would have likely missed the modernity of experimentation that went into the production of these classic silhouettes.

“I designed Fall 2012 for an academic woman—she is technical, she is ageless, and she is totally focused on the present and future,” Ferretti said, looking relaxed and radiant backstage after the show. “Because I envisioned her as a researcher, I wanted two things—first, that we ensure the workmanship and manipulation of materials were progressive and special. Second, that we hold the show in a cultural center where this woman would genuinely be in her element.”

Ferretti delivered on both accounts, and the former was certainly what truly made this the kind of collection to pre-order for fall. Forget the gorgeously-dewily-made-up-models-with-hair-in-perfect-buns. Really. What actually captured Ferretti’s vision was her inimitable ability to churn out impeccably tailored silhouettes that had the subtleties and accessories to please any woman on-the-go. Laser-cut pleated skirts were topped with clever silk blouses with sheer backs and sleeves. Elegant gray blazers were updated with pencil skirts made of transparent palettes. And without a doubt, even the most jaded of editors in the front row were enamored of certain accessories that were seen throughout—bejeweled collars, Perspex belts, and sure-to-be-hit pumps that incorporated silver pointed toes along with intelligently placed studs.

Still, perhaps Ferretti’s best work in this collection was a more traditional Italian strength—that of fourrière. Ferretti worked fur across tops, bottoms, and outerwear alike, but it was particularly breathtaking when the designer showcased a series of fitted, luxurious fur coats covered outwardly in transparent plastic lining. It was a combination that had the majority of the audience realizing on the spot what they wished they’d wished for. Progressive? Check. Special? Double check. But above all else—too bad about the gloomy weather? With these coats in our closets, that, as I was told, is exactly what we are hoping to have.

Leena Sanzgiri is a Manhattan-based management consultant from Dubai, where she grew up loving fashion, art, music, and theater. She strives to balance writing, traveling, cooking, painting, socializing, and hunting for vintage finds with watching abnormal amounts of reality television. Stay tuned for her forthcoming personal blog and for more posts on OliviaPalermo.com, or follow her on Twitter: @leenasanzgiri

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