Fall 2012 New York Fashion Week: Rachel Roy

– By Leena Sanzgirl – 

Rachel Roy is someone who knows a thing or two about being the kind of icon that her contemporaries aspire to emulate. After all, this is the woman who has ranged in versatility from directing Rocawear to establishing her own celeb-coveted luxury label, who has consistently articulated what we wished we could say as a guest judge on our favorite fashion reality shows, and who taught us how to wear that Prada turban back in 2007 (a feat in and of itself that frankly, should be followed by a very well-merited “ ’Nuff said”).

So when Roy said to me during her Fall 2012 RTW presentation in New York, “I designed this collection for the woman I aspire to be,” my curiosity was piqued. As it turns out, this season, Roy was uniquely inspired by the female landscape architects of Women in the Dirt, a documentary chronicling their innovative commitments to natural beauty and environmental sustainability. For her collection, Roy translated the working elements of moss, stone, and earth prevalent in the film into pieces composed of cleverly mixed textures and long, architectural silhouettes. The textural interplays started at the very bottom of the clean silhouettes with suede and pony-hair booties, working their way up into mixed leather gloves and clutches, and finally manifesting within the garments themselves, which combined a wide range of fabrics—lambskin with knits, shearling with flannel, and wool with jersey, to name a few. Roy also managed to punch up what could have been a relatively tame color palette by incorporating jewel tones of garnet, emerald, and sapphire throughout.
Certainly, the majority of the standout items were in the daytime separates. A top made of what the Roy camp called “confetti crochet” with black lambskin short sleeves will look great on any girl uptown or down, a colorblock merino knit peacoat will be perfect outerwear to transition into fall, and a bright orange angora cardigan paired with suede rose-colored gloves will exemplify the trademark Rachel Roy balance of elegance and edge. Still, the room of milling industry experts was mostly abuzz with talk of what would have been a finale eveningwear item had this been a runway show: a sleeveless satin violet top that had what Roy called the “tuxedo back” (essentially an open back with lapels), worn over matching slim pants. Among other things, the ensemble will surely serve as a young, fashion-forward starlet’s show stopping red carpet entrance—and exit. Our verdict? ’Nuff said.

Leena Sanzgiri is a Manhattan-based management consultant from Dubai, where she grew up loving fashion, art, music, and theater. She strives to balance writing, traveling, cooking, painting, socializing, and hunting for vintage finds with watching abnormal amounts of reality television. Stay tuned for her forthcoming personal blog and for more posts on oliviapalermo.com, or follow her on Twitter: @leenasanzgiri

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