Fall 2013 London Fashion Week: Mary Katrantzou

– By Nausheen Shah –

Winter calls for hibernation and reflection when the short days and colder weather slow down our daily momentum. Mary Katrantzou has clearly changed seasons and is using her Fall/Winter 2013 collection to challenge her ideals of color and silhouette for the Katrantzou woman.
Like many other great avant-garde designers before her, Katrantzou explored Japanese motifs in cuts, form and imagery to construct her latest collection. The clearest example of change appeared in the evident lack of color and surprising shift to black and white imagery.  Ultimately, Katrantzou attempted to reengineer nature following the incentive of early twentieth century photographers; Edward Steichen, Alfred Stieglitz, Clarence White, inspiring her to explore a painterly black and white impressionism. In prior seasons, color dominated and set the stage for her elaborately intricate woven plots of kaleidoscope prints and postcard motif, but this season is a turning point dabbling into what seems to be either a Japanese sunrise or sunset.
In addition, Katrantzou’s pieces held an earnest amount of volume with a billowing ease yet still managed to maintain a strong firm poise. Blazers turned into long dresses which were seamlessly closed in the front, proved to be the best example of nouveau. Her mastery techniques shine in the last looks with light layers of chiffon composed garments creating a sensation of transparency and water color movement to her newly explored silhouettes.
Although Katranzou might not amass an overwhelming new following after this show, it is certainly without a doubt that her loyal clients will see many a blossoming spring from this well worked and explorative winter collection.

Nausheen Shah is a New York based fashion designer turned stylist who has worked for the likes of Catherine Malandrino and Zac Posen.  In her travels, Nausheen’s love of language, cuisine, art and interior design flourished, informing her unique, distinctive, and global style.  She is a fashion contributor/luxury travel writer for the New York Post and also runs her own ‘fashion as a lifestyle’ blog – A Shah’s Life.  Nausheen may be followed on Facebook @nausheenshahstylist and Twitter @nausheenshah

Photos courtesy of Style.com

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