Giambattista Valli Spring 2015 Haute Couture

Coco Chanel and Janis Joplin may be an unlikely pair of muses, but Giambattista Valli drew inspiration from both the icons of classy chic and bohemian rock and roll for a Couture Spring 2015 collection that played to the designer’s sculptural, grand and embellished strengths, while subtly pushing his elegant aesthetic to the edges of contemporary.  Opening in monochromes, Valli sent point d’esprit veiled models out in signature high-cinched waists, exaggerating proportions and playing with layers pairing sheer voluminous skirts over tap shorts and wide-leg trousers. The peplum saw a grown up adaptation in elongated, flared tunics paired with trousers, and the classic tee was reimagined in couture, modernizing the hand-embellished high-fashions with a feel of casual elegance and familiarity.

Bejeweled and embroidered ditsy, vined florals started as detailing and soon took bloom into luscious head to toe prints and playful 3D elements, growing wild and over the garments as they made their way through the Grand Palais.  Valli-customized versions of Chanel’s signature bouclé jacket made an appearance before the show emerged into floral maxi dresses, ruffled poetic collars, and floor-length feather capes, nodding to Joplin’s 1960s free-spirited, beatnik folk scene.

The palette turned to sherbet pastels as Valli’s showstoppers took the runway. Pants boldly mixed amongst the coveted gown spot of the collection, dressed up in a sheen of taffeta and brocade with crisp creases and paired with cascading ruffled-tulle capes lending enough decadence for the most extravagant of occasions. Always dreamy, Valli’s voluminous finale creations seemed to sweep through the decades, Valli’s woman effortlessly playing style chameleon and channeling the best of the bold. In a year that has so strongly favored seventies throwbacks, it was refreshing to see hints of other decades mixed in to remind us the modern day muse isn’t pinned to any singular style. Traditions were meant to be re-mixed and re-imagined, and Valli has us seeing the whole spectrum.

About the Author

Sarah Bertness is a Brooklyn-based freelance writer covering the arts, music, fashion and culture. She has a love for all things avant-garde, late night rock and roll, wanderlust, and a good dose of fringe and gold sequins. You can follow her musings on Twitter and Instagram @sarahbertness.