Lines We Love: Roger Vivier

There is no buckle around the world with so much history. No heel as exciting and classy as the virgule. No shoe designer with the talent and legend of Roger Vivier… They truly are one -or two- of a kind.

The French designer created shoes he considered sculptures and sublimated women with real pieces of art. Queen Elizabeth II, Marlène Dietrich, Brigitte Bardot, Liz Taylor, Josephine Baker, Mistinguette, the Beatles, Françoise Hardy or Elsa Schiaparelli, they all had something in common: they worshiped Vivier. He also created shoes for renowned designers and couturiers, like Christian Dior, Emanuel Ungaro, André Courreges, Cristobal Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent, all of whom now design original Vivier ideas under their own name.

Vivier changed the rules and was always stripes ahead of his contemporaries, creating improvised, innovative and unpredictable pieces with materials like lace, tulle, “guipure”, leather, drapery, golden fur, see through plastic, organza, vinyl, feathers or leaves. He also is the father of various types of heels: the Stilleto, the Choc, the Virgule, and of the Belle Vivier shoes adorned with the emblematic metal buckled shoes that Deneuve was wearing in the Luis Buñuel film “Belle de Jour”. That was 1965.

Today Roger Vivier brand has learned how to mantain the essence of the original designer in hands of Bruno Frisoni, current creative director. Since 2004, he has conceived not only shoes… Also bags -The Metro-, a Couture collection that was daring and intricate as works of art and a new universe of luxury.

This Spring-Summer collection is “a stroll through the heat of summer” and offers “a sexy collection”. Roger Vivier’s iconic Parisian look becomes increasingly sophisticated with acutely streamlined ranges. Uppers are slimmer, heels are narrower, like the Pilgrim sandal which is given a Privilège heel to become Pilgrim Sexy, or Choc heel, becoming Sexy Choc. A new model, Ondulation, draws sensual curves over the foot. Stiletto-Sphère accentuates its low cut with embellished heels of pearl, like a gem, in honour of a new name, Miss Pearl.

About the Author

Julia Urgel is a journalist and producer based in Madrid who contributes to a multitude of magazines –Marie Claire México, Vanidades México, Gentleman Spain and writing about fashion, celebrities and beauty. With an MBA in fashion -and a future PhD in fashion too- she is a university proffesor at Centro Universitario Villanueva and director of the specialization course Wedding Event Planner. You can follow her on Twitter and Instagram @julia_urgel