Runway Report: Chalayan Fall 2016

Hussein Chalayan designs clothes that move further than the material itself and talks about identity, migration and cultural clashes. His designs are a bit more like art than in that sense, leaning towards architects like Jean Nouvel and Zaha Hadid.

The show opened with black and white, classically based looks — white shirts, black pants and coats, leather. Some patterns even reminded us of Japanese influences with kimono sleeves and wrapped waists. Then came gently cut white dresses printed with technical drawings. Digital numbers –based on the german’s economic success and disassociated German words.

“The whole thing was supposed to be about Germans – the entire region,” said Chalayan, who defined the drawings on the dresses as taken from a space-ship dashboard, embroidered “to give them charm” and converted the catwalk like in a fairy tale show.

Divided into 8 chapters, each phase of the show presented a narrative about an aspect of wide-reaching Germanic influence and teutonic culture. Chapters Landscape, Weight, Reconstruction, Economic Success, Yourself Culture and Loss of Self all featured Swarovski Crystals. The press note said: “Known ultimately for its economic success, Germany is currently a very compelling destination for Middle Eastern migrants. However, Germany is also responsible for many other facets of western culture that we overlook and take for granted.”

About the Author

Julia Urgel is a journalist and producer based in Madrid who contributes to a multitude of magazines –Marie Claire México, Vanidades México, Gentleman Spain and writing about fashion, celebrities and beauty. With an MBA in fashion -and a future PhD in fashion too- she is a university proffesor at Centro Universitario Villanueva and director of the specialization course Wedding Event Planner. You can follow her on Twitter and Instagram @julia_urgel