Runway Report: Chanel Couture Fall 2017

A large model of the Eiffel Tower rose above a natural runway into a slightly misted sky, under the highest reaches of the dome of the Grand Palais. For years, the fashion industry has witnessed the grand-scale sets of the House of Chanel, leading to this season’s Haute Couture collection setting of the installation of a replica of the city’s most romanticized emblem. In a continuation of tribute to the city of Paris, Anne Hidalgo, the city’s mayor, presented Karl Lagerfeld with its highest honor, the Medaille Grand Vermeil de la Ville.

During the noble presentation, Hidalgo spoke to Lagerfeld’s creative. “Your imagination is boundless, and your ability to transport us into a different universe. You are a universal person, but you are also someone who makes Paris more beautiful and more creative. You are a Parisian.” To which Lagerfeld humbly reminded all that he is in fact a foreigner. In speaking to the kismet of the timing of this particular collection, Karl Lagerfeld insisted his direction in stating, “It’s all about France. This is the moment for France, with M. Macron as president. I predicted it.”

The couture collection showcased the skills of the Chanel ateliers. Silhouettes were bountiful and focused heavily upon. Dramatic shouldered silhouettes paired with bell-shaped skirts, skinny-bodied jackets over lean skirts, were exemplary masterpieces of construction. Thick tweeds; a stormy, dark palette; controlled compositions of feathers-especially notable when sprouted from shoulders- were all applied throughout the collection. Chanel canotier hats dressed the collection and were received pleasantly as they nearly mimicked the ones the Coco Chanel herself wore during that period. The accessories collection was immediately interpretable and receivable by audiences. Leather ankle boots wore semi-clear Lucite heels. The canotier hats were seemingly all realized in matching tweed.

The collection in many ways reverted to an antique Paris, one that would be interpreted during the time of Gabrielle Coco Chanel’s days. Karl Lagerfeld concluded his acceptance of his honor with the words, “Vive la France and above all, Vive Paris!” Lagerfeld’s collection for the House of Chanel spoke the same tune.

About the Author

Jennifer Paccione is a fashion editor who shares her time between New York City and Milan. She has been featured and published with respected magazines internationally in various languages. She currently acts as contributing editor for publications including Bulgari Magazine, The Fashionable Lampoon, Fashion to Max and RedMilk Magazine, whilst having contributed for NYLON and Editorialist. Alongside journalism, Jennifer freelances as a social media and digital marketing advisor, having already worked with brands such as Dolce & Gabbana, Alberta Ferretti and Philosophy, among many. Follow her on Instagram @jenniferpaccione