Runway Report: Chanel Spring 2016 Couture

Over the past few seasons we’ve seen Chanel turn its runway show into a casino, an airport terminal and a grocery store. But for its Spring ’16 couture collection, Paris’ Grand Palais was turned into an eco-friendly garden scene complete with fresh grass, a slatted wooden pavilion and a bright blue sky.

“I think it’s the first couture collection done in the ecological approach. It’s fun to do this after being high-tech,” Karl Lagerfeld said, referring to his collection last fall, which featured 3D printing. This time around wood shavings were used as a form of beading while string, straw, raffia, twine and raw cotton was transformed into embroidered tweeds, lattices and embellishments.

Models donned bumbags, gauzy capes, and this season’s it shoe silhouette, a cork wedge with a round toe adding to the natural-eco moment, as did the show’s only jewelry – bees as broaches and single earrings. “Bees are disappearing” Lagerfeld said, connecting the eco dots.

Celebrating the suit, one prominent silhouette of the collection was a long, lean skirt, cut mid-shin and worn with a rounded sleeve jacket. Edie Campbell in navy-banded white tweed paired with a navy skirt defined the classically graceful look, though overall the palette generally tended to be more earthy tones.

As the bride, Mica Arganaraz wore a dreamy tufted hoodie, dress, and train, which was all “made from wild cotton,” said Lagerfeld. “This is high-fashion ecology. It must not look like some sloppy demonstration!” Then there was the eveningwear; a floor-sweeping gown which looked like a classic Chanel piece, constructed from delicate black lace in elegant layers but an extra element of sex appeal was injected with a daringly low neckline, while an off-white sleeveless number, which boasted tiered detail and heavy wooden embellishing and a glittering cape hung loosely from Gigi Hadid’s bare shoulders.

About the Author

Having started her career in New Zealand as a fashion and beauty assistant, she then moved on to edit the online beauty magazine, BeautyBible. Since then she has created her own blog, The Refined Edit. Now based in the United Kingdom she has contributed to countless print and online publications including Style.com/Arabia. Follow her musing on Twitter and Instagram @gracieastewart.