Runway Report: Christian Dior Fall 2015

The pink runway and second-skin vinyl boots that Raf Simons presented at Dior’s Haute Couture show this past January were on display once again at yesterday’s prêt-à-porter show. But this time round, Simons’ inspiration steered away from time travel or historical gardens and instead called upon animals to provide the discreetly sensual undertones seen in the exits for Dior’s Autumn/Winter 2015 collection.

Noting that his intentions were to show clothing that was “more liberated, darker and more sexual” than what was shown at couture, Simons created a commercially viable assemblage of looks that hinted at “more wildness, savagery and overt masculinity.” This new way of interpreting the Dior woman was based on an “idea of animals and an abstraction of their patterns” in order to invent a new species, la femme animale.

This goal was successfully achieved through the masculine tailoring of long tweed coats, jackets and vests, some of them double-breasted and some paired with cropped and cuffed trousers. Most interesting was the Simons-style abstraction of animal print, reinterpreted as a psychedelic mix of spots and swirls seen on the aforementioned vinyl boots and through a series of easy, swingy dresses. These looks, especially those paired with fox fur coats in shades of lilac and teal, left a memorable impression. Especially desirable were the ensembles in which mini coat dresses were paired with solid color versions of the it-boot from Dior – the boots made even cooler thanks to their hyper extended length and tinted Lucite heels. Notable as well was the masterful reworking of patent leather into a shimmering perforated mesh seen on several separates.

If Raf Simons’ desire, as stated in the show notes, was to induce “that feeling of sensory overload” for “this animalistic, sexual woman wearing a new kind of camouflage,” then consider his desire satiated, as this collection will have retailers and customers alike signing up to enlist if it means being outfitted in Dior’s version of sexy camo.

About the Author

A fashion stylist, event designer, and style writer, Lucas Somoza has a keen eye for all things beautiful. Based in Paris, Lucas regularly collaborates with Olivia throughout Paris Fashion Week, producing editorials and contributing reviews of designer collections. You can follow Lucas on Instagram at @LucasSomoza.