Runway Report: Delpozo Fall 2016

Josep Font creates out of the ordinary parameters for ready-to-wear. Delpozo’s Fall/Winter 2016 collection that was presented in New York this week is the new Prêt-à-Couture. It was art. The emotional and the rational, Victorian and futurist, the romantic and the dark.

Delpozo’s creative director surprised us again with a collection inspired by the Bauhaus style and through Fritz Lang’s 1927 German Expressionist sci-fi film “Metropolis”. The metallic colour palette of silver, gold, bronze, even blue, red and orange reminded Lang’s female robot. Font went one step further with textures mixing holographic mesh, metallic embroidery, thermo-fixes tulle and velvet jacquard prints that surprised with a silver craquelé effect.

Nature elements continue inspiring Font in this collection, but with a surreal twist. The digital illustrations of the italian Daria Petrilli show flora and fauna thar imbue etheeral wasp-waisted Victorian womanhood with a dark seductive power. It is all about a bucolic nature making the coat the centerpiece of his collection.

The designer makes easy what is difficult. He designs overwhelming patterns with an easy and pure result. A bustier jumpsuit which rounds over the shoulders and waist recalls Lang’s Robot while the hips are melted away in modular patterns. Large pleats create those unexpected depths hinted at in Petrilli’s work. A structured shoulder line elongates the neck while coats and tops bare shoulders which are accentuated with abstract sculpted bows adding an architectural gesture presented in a mix of bold colors from violet, yellow, slate blue to emerald green.

The show was the perfect dream. A fantasy. Light and colour for any day

About the Author

Julia Urgel is a journalist and producer based in Madrid who contributes to a multitude of magazines –Marie Claire México, Vanidades México, Gentleman Spain and writing about fashion, celebrities and beauty. With an MBA in fashion -and a future PhD in fashion too- she is a university proffesor at Centro Universitario Villanueva and director of the specialization course Wedding Event Planner. You can follow her on Twitter and Instagram @julia_urgel