Runway Report: Elie Saab Couture Fall 2017

Many referred to it as “medieval”; others even said it reminded them of Game of Thrones.  Elie Saab himself called it “A Tale of Fallen Kings”. But no matter the categorization or reference, we can all agree that Saab’s latest Haute Couture collection was royally magnificent. Capturing the majesty of a Warrior Queen, Elie Saab used velvet, embroidery, capes and coats to great regal effect.

The show began with a series of monochromatic evening clothes in saturated, primary jewel tones like ruby red, sapphire blue and emerald green. Interspersed with moody black confections, these rich looks – mostly rendered in velvet, tulle and lace – conveyed strength and confidence despite their sexy silhouettes of nipped waists, exposed shoulders, plunging necklines and thing-high slits. Grandeur came in the form of dramatically elongated sleeves and cuffs, or peplums with generous trains, and via floor-sweeping capes. As the show progressed, the color story faded into whispery pastels and eventually into elegant ivory to close the show on a fantastical, bridal note. Feathers, too, added a touch of storybook romance to several of the most memorable looks.

Of note was a style of bead embroidery that seemed to be a new weapon in the Saab arsenal of embellishment. Shimmering tone-on-tone or golden beads were shaped in to damask swirls, scrolls, forest leaves, and even snowflakes to adorn the dresses shown. More refined than sequins and less expected than heavy crystals, the embroidery and beadwork displayed throughout the collection not only provided beautiful cohesion, but reminded us all that in the Haute Couture kingdom, Saab reigns supreme.

About the Author

A fashion stylist, event designer, and style writer, Lucas Somoza has a keen eye for all things beautiful. Based in Paris, Lucas regularly collaborates with Olivia throughout Paris Fashion Week, producing editorials and contributing reviews of designer collections. You can follow Lucas on Instagram at @LucasSomoza.