Runway Report: Elie Saab Fall 2015

Moody tree-shaped cutouts lined the glossy runway which ran the length of the black tent housing Elie Saab’s latest runway show on Saturday. Evoking a mysterious forest, the scene was set for the latest offering from Paris’ glamour guru to the ladies who lunch.

First looks paraded out to the sounds of a military drum line, underscoring their “structured, commanding silhouettes.” Long, body-conscious coats and pantsuits decorated with rows of shiny buttons gave way to structured, shorter coatdresses replete with stand-up collars and broad belts placed high on the models’ waists. This raised waistline was a recurring theme in the collection along with forest-derived motifs of leaves and branches. Some executed in tweeds and many in Saab’s beloved matte crepe, the carefully composed looks were studies in an ideal autumnal color palette: inky black, army green, teal, crimson and a deep shade of peacock blue that prompted a few “oohs” from the audience.

Eveningwear options offered a softer silhouette (think Juliette sleeves, floaty skirts and fur trim), but managed to maintain modernity thanks to a memorable graphic print and foliage-inspired embroideries inventively reworked in lace and textured jacquard. The shorter, toe skimming length of Saab’s A-line gowns for next season felt especially young and easy when compared to the designer’s usual preference for fishtails and beaded trains.

The show’s alluring ambiance combined with the deep, dark overtones of Saab’s woody inspiration made for a graceful, if not inventive, presentation. But from chez Saab we don’t look for edgy; we look for luxurious femininity, and once again the designer delivered in spades.

About the Author

A fashion stylist, event designer, and style writer, Lucas Somoza has a keen eye for all things beautiful. Based in Paris, Lucas regularly collaborates with Olivia throughout Paris Fashion Week, producing editorials and contributing reviews of designer collections. You can follow Lucas on Instagram at @LucasSomoza.