Runway Report: Elie Saab Fall 2016

When Elie Saab throws a paillette-embroidered leather biker jacket over a plunging evening gown tied with a western belt for the first look of his latest fashion show, there’s no misinterpreting the message that the times, they are a-changin’. For Fall 2016, Saab’s usual repertoire of styles for the sultry Madame has given way to a new wardrobe designed for a rock n’ roll Mademoiselle. The remarkably younger and way cooler vibe that Saab had been hinting at in recent collections reached its pinnacle at yesterday’s presentation, underscored by the simultaneous live performance by Danish electropop sensation MØ.

A dark but rich color scheme of turquoise, purple and raspberry was mixed with a heavy dose of bad-girl black.  Within the span of 57 looks, Saab delivered a tremendous variety of sartorial offerings, from his usual body-skimming, slinky gowns to beaded shorts paired with floppy hats and fringed vests. There was a definite nod to the bohemian 1970s and – at times – the era’s Victorian and gypsy trends, as evidenced by the lacy sleeves, swinging scarves and airy, tiered skirts sent down the runway. Ultra-luxe fabrics like devoré velvet, guipure lace and brocade rendered such pieces aspirational, glamorous and au courant. It can’t be an easy feat to drastically modernize and revitalize the style of a beloved brand without betraying its core customer, but this season Elie Saab has managed to do it, and with great aplomb.

After the conclusion of Hollywood’s awards season and Paris Fashion Week, the next moment on the calendars of today’s starlets is the Coachella music festival, and in this collection, they’ve certainly found their style nirvana.

About the Author

A fashion stylist, event designer, and style writer, Lucas Somoza has a keen eye for all things beautiful. Based in Paris, Lucas regularly collaborates with Olivia throughout Paris Fashion Week, producing editorials and contributing reviews of designer collections. You can follow Lucas on Instagram at @LucasSomoza.