Runway Report: Elie Saab SS17 Couture

The period of the 40s to 60s in Egypt was a golden era of cultural richness, especially with regard to Arabic music and cinema. It’s in this world that Elie Saab imagined his muse for his Spring/Summer 2017 Haute Couture collection. She is a woman who celebrates artistic freedom, cultural wealth and sophistication: “strong yet delicate, elegant and free.”

Paying tribute to her, Elie Saab revealed his own contemporary and creative interpretation of Oriental patterns and traditional Moorish architectural shapes. Dresses of every imaginable variation were accented with crystal embroidery of Islamic stars, or shimmery blue “evil eye” motifs that are so beloved throughout the Middle East.

This season Saab presented a flattering, streamlined shape that highlighted the true natural waist, and often accented such looks with a bejeweled belt. This effective choice made legs look endless and served to recall the silhouette of his 1950s starlet muse. In a fun and unpredictable twist, many gowns were refreshingly free of Saab’s usual heavy embellishment while the accompanying accessories couldn’t be more laden with sparkle. We especially loved the glamorous sunglasses and headbands.  Also appreciated was the graceful movement of fabrics that seemed to influence each look. Even when showing pants, they were paired with a feather-trimmed cape or a silky train, for example.

Honoring an often-forgotten Arab epoch, Elie Saab conjured golden beauties. We may just see one or two of these accessorized with a different kind of golden beauty – an Oscar? – come this March.

About the Author

A fashion stylist, event designer, and style writer, Lucas Somoza has a keen eye for all things beautiful. Based in Paris, Lucas regularly collaborates with Olivia throughout Paris Fashion Week, producing editorials and contributing reviews of designer collections. You can follow Lucas on Instagram at @LucasSomoza.