Runway Report: Erdem SS18

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In a slightly unexpected twist, Erdem, a brand known for polite and distinctly formal structures, presents its sexiest collection to date. Yes, there were still opulent frocks with ornate metallic sequins and high-necked Victorian collars, but this time, the clothes seeped sex appeal – from sheer lace gowns with bare breasts on show to strapless bobble frocks showing models’ bare necks and shoulders, followed by authoritarian pencil skirts, grand opera coats in emerald brocade and precisely tailored jackets in heritage tweeds. It was a complete transition into a new world, one where as Moralıoğlu explains backstage, “The Queen Elizabeth had gone to New York. Or, what if Dorothy Dandridge had come to Buckingham Palace? I mean, what might she have worn?”.

Even the hair and make-up details, although elegant, felt flirty – ribbon adorned ponytails bound at the nape of the neck and delicately curled ends. This was in contrast to piercing black eyeliner and sharp bangs that somehow completed this stylized, aristocratic rebel look.

Moralıoğlu articulated his wonder for the queen with this presentation – in fact, he spent countless months researching the Royal Collection at Windsor Castle. No wonder the focal point of the collection were bewildering dresses in rose hues and iridescent soft yellows, adorned with pearls and sequin trims.