Runway Report: Giambattista Valli

Giambattista Valli, an artist bred in Haute Couture and often inspired by watercolor, put together an out-of-the-box collection for Fall/Winter 2015. Valli took his classic formula of masterful draping and gorgeous use of tulle to the next level by changing up his silhouettes. Playing with proportion, he altered waistlines and placed unexpected textiles in unexpected places: truly accentuating a fresh take on his quintessential aesthetic.

While there were many standout creations, it was Valli’s combination of textiles that was especially fruitful. Feathered coats, exquisite tulle and crisp lace, all glided down the runway showcasing his ability to manipulate the fibers in an extremely tasteful manner – differentiating this couture collection from those of his past. With artful layering and pairing, each piece proved interesting to the eye. Additionally, Valli’s palette went far beyond his usual pastel comfort zone, showcasing more saturated hues and starker blacks.

Moreover, Valli’s use of proportion and altered silhouette were both extremely innovative this season. Early on in the collection, he placed volume in unexpected places; for example, complimenting an a-line black smock with a crisp pant doused with feathered ankles. He continued to play with volume thanks to his extensive work and attention to detail, moving it upwards, creating dramatic round skirts that were shown both casually – drop-waisted below a tunic and layered over trousers – to indisputable spectacular gowns. The key was his contrast of constrictive, structured tops with ever-flowing bottoms. Every layer and drape served as a single moving part to create a whole fluid skeleton, from the orange petals that delicately trickled down a base of lavender tulle to the show-stopping ball-gown skirts that absorbed the entirety of the runway creating an out-of-the-box silhouette. Valli’s collection is creating a very cool narrative here: a nod to modernity and the wearable avant-garde.

About the Author

Alanna Martine Kilkeary is currently a junior at Fordham University, Lincoln Center. She is concentrating in English and pursuing a Fashion minor. She is the founder and mastermind behind Killer Queen, a fashion, beauty, and lifestyle site, as well as the WEAR Editor at the Lala. You can follow her on Twitter and Instagram @alanna_martine.