Runway Report: Jonathan Simkhai Fall 2016

This season it was all about a structural connection for newly appointed CFDA winner Jonathan Simkhai. ‘I was really inspired by Santiago Calatrava, the architect, and how he created his bridges through tension and cables that overlaid one another with such intricacy while appearing so delicate but were so strong.’

These ideas were translated quite literally throughout the primarily Winter white and floor grazing collection. From the intricately designed lace dresses that formed a kaleidoscope of shapes and were designed to show only what he intended to appear, to openings along what would have been seams of sleeves and skirts that were held together by the simple weaving of a cord.

As for the fabulous mix of textures, they were all created as custom fabrications developed by the Simkhai team with Jonathan’s heritage of his Grandfather’s lace and embroidery factory and mill leading the way of innovation. ‘I’m really excited about the juxtaposition of something that feels romantic yet geometric and powerful yet soft,’ and with that he made our eyes dance with each look that came down the runway thanks to pieces like a fur and lace trimmed trumpet skirt as well as zig-zagging fringe that danced along bodices and hips in a variety of silhouettes.

 

About the Author

Jillian Magenheim is the Editorial Director and Director of Partnerships for OliviaPalermo.com. She is also a digital media consultant for various fashion and beauty brands. You can follow her thoughts on Twitter @Magenhaz and on Instagram @jillianrose_m