Runway Report: Marchesa Fall 2017

Marchesa led their Fall Winter 2017 collection through a fluidity of color. Inspired by the culture of China and films like Farewell My Concubine, the house incorporated notes of Shanghai influence into the creative of the collection. The romanticism usually occupied by Marchesa, was accompanied by experimental textures and tones.

The season’s collection reference drawn from Imperial China, derived from “the empire’s appreciation for grandiose and awe-inducing style.” The designers further expanded, “We looked at films like Farewell My Concubine, and we loved the idea of all the color stories that you see in the costumes. So you’ll see a lot of pastels, but also a lot of chartreuse, and red – it’s about mixing those ideas.”

A cap-sleeve, black Chantilly lace gown, decorated in floral embroidery and a long skirt made from multicolored tassel fringe walked the show opener as an undeniable reference to imperial Asia set the tone for the show immediately. Tulle gowns and oversized bows spoke to a subtle wink towards the Fifties.

Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig advanced opulence further than silk and opted for the inclusion of feathers, velvet and fringe. Feathered embellishments came across airy and delicate, with a pleasing strangeness. Draped bows and fil coupes were aesthetically appealing. The Marchesa elements- rich textiles and embroideries- were reworked in hues and tones never before seen by the house. Embroidered lace dresses were reinterpreted in sheerness with multi-colored tassels emphasizing hemlines.

Marchesa’s Fall Winter 2017 collection proved rich in cultural reference and captivatingly effective in its creative delivery.

About the Author

Jennifer Paccione is a fashion editor who shares her time between New York City and Milan. She has been featured and published with respected magazines internationally in various languages. She currently acts as contributing editor for publications including Bulgari Magazine, The Fashionable Lampoon, Fashion to Max and RedMilk Magazine, whilst having contributed for NYLON and Editorialist. Alongside journalism, Jennifer freelances as a social media and digital marketing advisor, having already worked with brands such as Dolce & Gabbana, Alberta Ferretti and Philosophy, among many. Follow her on Instagram @jenniferpaccione