Runway Report: Marni AW18

For Fall 2018, everything at Marni was about contrasts. Backstage before the show creative director Francesco Risso explained to WWD that he considered “the contrast between our irresistible love for innovation and technology and, on the other side, those movements of the soul”. He sought to explore “the universal magnetism that attracts opposites” and wondered if, by fusing the two, he could define “a new primitivism — techno primitivism.”

The collection’s duality was particularly exemplified by its severe, glossy leather pieces, which were juxtaposed against raw, natural fabrics, flyaway threads, and rope tassels. For example, the collection opened with a range of shiny belted trenches made of treated leather or plastic that had unfinished threads left trailing.

There was a suggestion of recycling in the ponchos formed from blankets and sweaters sewn together with seams inside out — an idea reinforced by the piles of newspapers and used clothes that became the show room seating.

The silhouette was divided between a variety of ribbed sweater dresses that clung to the figure and oversized layers. Shocking hues of bright blue, green, pink and red brought a lively pop of color to otherwise natural hues.

About the Author

Having started her career in New Zealand as a fashion and beauty assistant, she then moved on to edit the online beauty magazine, BeautyBible. Since then she has created her own blog, The Refined Edit. Now based in the United Kingdom she has contributed to countless print and online publications including Follow her musing on Twitter and Instagram @gracieastewart.