Runway Report: Mary Katrantzou Fall 2015

Mary Katrantzou looked straight into the future with her FW15 collection, telling a tale of opposing forces that paired makers technology and new materials with traditional motifs and silhouettes in a collection of wearable art. “The billowing bourgeoisie versus the restrained rectilinear,” said Katrantzou of the kick flares that accented otherwise minimalistic designs.  She also paired kenophobia, a fear of empty space within an artwork, with technology and modernism, with skirts where prints literally popped thanks to 3d printing, matched with sleek shell tops. Texture was everywhere, from jackets and dresses elevated with beading and embossed paisley, 3D printed textiles and velvet flatforms, and even a pyramid landscaped pink foam runway.

Katrantzou’s digital prints took shape this season in neo-baroque organic forms juxtaposed with geometric minimalism. Hooded toggle-coats in a rainbow of color pairings stood out, as did pattern-blocked embellished dress coats.  Ironed lashes applied to the center lower lash line gave a mod, doll-like appearance to models, who were otherwise left natural not to let the clothes be upstaged. It was quirky, contemporary, and one of the most definitely something that will play to Katrantzou’s favor as the British Fashion Council and Vogue look to pick their 2015 Designer Fashion Fund winner in March.

Shop this collection now on modaoperandi.com

About the Author

Sarah Bertness is a Brooklyn-based freelance writer covering the arts, music, fashion and culture. She has a love for all things avant-garde, late night rock and roll, wanderlust, and a good dose of fringe and gold sequins. You can follow her musings on Twitter and Instagram @sarahbertness.