Runway Report: Mary Katrantzou Fall 2016

Mary Katrantzou took a trip to the ‘50s for FW16, reimagining the Hitchcock heroine in a kaleidoscope of hearts, stars, butterflies and spitfire flame adornments in a way that took her straight from black & white film to Katrantzou’s technicolor kaleidoscope of print and pattern play. Boxy houndstooth jackets paired with polka dot pencil skirts, multicolored fur shrugs wrapped over leopard print button-downs, and car coats paired over cigarette trousers and drop waisted, chevron-skirted midi dresses in silhouettes that played up the art of ladylike layering.

Models donned convertible-ride ready silk headscarves over sleek parted bangs and rich rouged lips, as they walked through a modern day nod to Warhol’s factory, complete with aluminum runway and a floating backdrop of the pop artist’s 1966 installation with engineer Billy Klüver ‘Silver Clouds. ’

Thick black outlines around Katrantzou’s shaped embellishments and prints lent a retro tattoo-inspired edge, bringing added rebel appeal to the classic feminine silhouettes, while star-accented shoulders and sleeves and waists gave a nod to classic western wear. Katrantzou is dressing the bold female risk-taker through the decades, and going retro has never looked quite so now.

About the Author

Sarah Bertness is a Brooklyn-based freelance writer covering the arts, music, fashion and culture. She has a love for all things avant-garde, late night rock and roll, wanderlust, and a good dose of fringe and gold sequins. You can follow her musings on Twitter and Instagram @sarahbertness.