Runway Report: Prada Fall 2016

Building off ideas explored in Prada’s Fall 2016 men’s show, Miuccia Prada sent out a varied collection of brocades, velvets, silks, furs, and even denim. The cinched waists and sailor hats gave a distinct ’50s spirit while the charm-laden jewelry and accessories hinted that the Prada woman this season was a world traveler.

The looks, Prada said were a collage representing all the different sides of a woman, including key moments of her life. “We need to understand who we are today. Everything is symbolic. It is like a collage of what is happy or painful, of whether you are feeling beautiful or horrible, when you have love or no love. I thought of it as like someone who has all the clothes she’s ever had on the floor in front of her in the morning, and she must choose how she’s going to assemble herself.” In show notes, Prada put it perfectly: “The nature of women is complex and ineffable . . . Like a Russian doll placed inside one another.”

Corsets of every variety defined the silhouette, worn over jackets and dresses, or sewn into overcoats. “The corset is the symbol of femininity, of empowerment and objectification,” the designer said. “She can be a peasant, she can be sexy, she can be nobility.” Sometimes the corsets were hung like tool belts, to add a workman-like kick to the sailor hats, woolen argyle stockings and sturdy mountain boots.

Outerwear of a military breed including elongated shooting jackets, trenches, capes and anoraks in mostly olive green or navy blue where paired with full skirts and narrower velvet sheath dresses. The scenic and floral photographic prints that appeared on T-shirts and as placement prints on coats were a collaboration with artist Christophe Chemin who also worked on the menswear autumn/winter 2016 collection.

About the Author

Having started her career in New Zealand as a fashion and beauty assistant, she then moved on to edit the online beauty magazine, BeautyBible. Since then she has created her own blog, The Refined Edit. Now based in the United Kingdom she has contributed to countless print and online publications including Style.com/Arabia. Follow her musing on Twitter and Instagram @gracieastewart.