Runway Report: Roland Mouret Fall 2015

Although Roland Mouret had a younger team with him for Fall 2015 pushing him to try something new, except rather than a complete overhaul, his latest collection featured a fresh spin on the Mouret we know and love focusing on using rich fabrics to create a delicate balance between the beauty of a woman’s silhouette and the structure that often comes with dressing for Winter.

As seen in seasons’ past, there were asymmetrical necklines, origami contrasting folds and geometric patchwork throughout each design. Another Mouret staple was his ability to implement these geometric lines to create graphic colorblocking, this time with a deeper palette more fit for autumn like black, white, oxblood, dusty blue and Mandarin orange. Something new was the slight departure on each piece being significantly body conscious as clothes fell further away from the body than ever before as trousers, jackets and dresses made from a tapestry cotton viscose made the entire collection more wearable yet sustained a polished appearance.

One thing there most definitely was an emphasis on was the natural waist as it was cinched by skinny belts and a flattering new a-line shape to his skirts. Luckily they sustained a Mouret touch thanks to shorter hemlines and less of a flare than what they typically display. A bit more of a punk rock edge was imparted thanks to accents like a knitted mesh used to show flashes of skin, visible zipper ankle boots and patchwork leather bodices and bottoms.

 

 

About the Author

Jillian Magenheim is the Editorial Director and Director of Partnerships for OliviaPalermo.com. She is also a digital media consultant for various fashion and beauty brands. You can follow her thoughts on Twitter @Magenhaz and on Instagram @jillianrose_m