Runway Report: Roland Mouret SS17

In the show notes describing Roland Mouret’s Spring 2017 collection, he said the process of building his new flagship boutique in New York inspired the designs he created for next season. While perhaps the connection between a construction site and a wearable, successful collection isn’t readily apparent, what was unmistakably evident was the remarkable versatility within this showing from Mouret, absolutely full of covetable separates in addition to the universally flattering, structured-but-clingy dresses he’s known for.

Intricately layered and pieced-together tops were a calling card of this runway show. Embroidered neoprene was mixed with mesh, print, or plaid. Silk crepe blouses were finished in graphic black trims and featured a variety of cutouts, straps, or laces. These overall design directives – the mix of textures and interesting details – are what made this show particularly memorable.

If the daring combination of multiple textures was a successful gamble, then so too was the liberal addition of peplum detailing. In the deft hands of Mouret, this once-tired trend looked cool and current once again, thanks to the proportions of the silhouettes and the angular construction of the peplums themselves. Especially fun and innovative were those that were fashioned to resemble jackets tied backwards around the waist, with the sleeves tied at the small of the models’ backs.

About the Author

A fashion stylist, event designer, and style writer, Lucas Somoza has a keen eye for all things beautiful. Based in Paris, Lucas regularly collaborates with Olivia throughout Paris Fashion Week, producing editorials and contributing reviews of designer collections. You can follow Lucas on Instagram at @LucasSomoza.