Runway Report: Simone Rocha Fall 2015

Dark, bold and beautiful, Dublin-born designer Simone Rocha’s fall/winter 2015 collection continued the dramatic sensibility captured in her prior work for spring/summer. This time however, Rocha pushed her designs even farther into an abstract realm.

The collection, which began with one sculptural black ensemble after another, transitioned slowly from heavy tapestry-like garments, to airy pink tulles and floral silks, culminating with a dramatic red jacquard cape. Rocha’s interesting textile manipulations and deconstructed shapes were inspired by the somewhat-eerie work of French-American artist and sculptor Louise Bourgeois; specifically her piece Mamelles, which discusses the manipulation of a woman’s body.

Large floral motifs, oversized ruffles and pearl choker necklaces gave a nod to Elizabethan fashion, while the ethereal sheer dresses evoked the romantic aesthetic of the Rococo. Crushed velvet, embroidered tulle, embellished brooches, and tufts of hair were seen throughout the complex designs, on everything from balloon-sleeved chenille coats and mini-dresses, to structured suit jackets.

One of the most interesting elements of the collection was Rocha’s application of abstract floral cutouts, both large and small. Used as the main construction pieces for jackets, tops and skirts, as well as detailed appliqué, the organic-shaped cutouts added a unique structural component to the designs, better suiting the artistic ‘ready-to-wear’ collection for a museum than the world of retail.

About the Author

Naomi Nachmani is a Toronto-based fashion, beauty and lifestyle freelance writer. She has a penchant for history, travelling, books and The Bachelor, and believes strongly in the value of emojis. Find her on Twitter and Instagram @naominachmani