Runway Review: Christian Dior Spring 2015

At Raf Simons’ last collection for Dior – the Haute Couture in July – the designer aimed to create clothes for the future by reinterpreting couture hallmarks of the past. For next spring, Simons continues this narrative by producing a prêt-a-porter collection in the same vein, remixing historical fashion references in his own singular manner, resulting in a collection unlike any other we’ve seen this season, and certainly unlike any previous ready-to-wear collection from Dior.

Guests at the show entered a futuristic, clinical space housed in an enormous mirrored tent erected in a courtyard of the Louvre museum – a literal journey from past, through present, and into the future.  This contrast in design, between the ornate French architecture of the Louvre and the glossy brilliance of the mirrored tent, was a recurring theme in the collection as well, as Simons reinterpreted centuries-old fashion icons such as court coats, bustiers and pannier skirts, pairing them with everything from T-shirts to drawstring Bermuda shorts.  A nod to what Simons calls “the near-future” came in the form of sporty textures and fabrics such as jersey, or as a bomber jacket or flight suit.  Especially memorable was a series of delicately embroidered, smocked Victorian nightgowns refashioned for day, à la Raf. As strange as this mélange of disparate references and choices may seem, the presentation never felt gimmicky, nor did the clothes. They served to crystallize the excitingly edgy Raf Simons vision for Dior.

About the Author

A fashion stylist, event designer, and style writer, Lucas Somoza has a keen eye for all things beautiful. Based in Paris, Lucas regularly collaborates with Olivia throughout Paris Fashion Week, producing editorials and contributing reviews of designer collections. You can follow Lucas on Instagram at @LucasSomoza.