Runway Review: Hermes Spring 2015

After four years of designing the women’s ready-to-wear at Hermès, Christophe Lemaire presented his final collection for the renowned French brand on the last day of Paris fashion week. Lemaire will be leaving Hermès to work on his own label. Replacing him will be Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, formerly of Céline and The Row, whose work we look forward to discovering in March.

For his ultimate collection at Hermès, Christophe Lemaire focused on the formula that has defined his four years at the maison:  producing sophisticated, luxurious clothes in the most sumptuous of materials, rendered in soothing, discreet colorways.  Combined with the warmth and serenity of a long, sand covered runway, the timeless, elegant clothing evoked a desert getaway – a tranquil respite after four weeks of fashion madness.

Opening the show was a series of slouchy, slightly masculine looks in shades of cream, taupe and beige. Instantly recognizable in Lemaire’s designs for Hermès is a remarkable attention to detail in the tailoring and a commitment to unrestrained luxury.  Matte sueded crocodile shorts, boxy embroidered cotton dresses and grown-up pleated skirts seem appropriate for spring in the indulgent Berber world conjured up by Lemaire.  The combination of exotic animal skins seen on several pieces served as a reminder of Hermès’ heritage as a leather goods maker, as did the chicly compact new handbag introduced on this season’s runway: the Cherche-Midi.

Lemaire’s final look of his final show for Hermès possessed the easy elegance that has become his signature.   A generously draped (but flawlessly tailored) breezy summer dress confected from fabric in that most desirable shade of Hermès orange.

About the Author

A fashion stylist, event designer, and style writer, Lucas Somoza has a keen eye for all things beautiful. Based in Paris, Lucas regularly collaborates with Olivia throughout Paris Fashion Week, producing editorials and contributing reviews of designer collections. You can follow Lucas on Instagram at @LucasSomoza.