Runway Review: Marni Spring 2015

Marni took viewers through designer Consuelo Castiglioni’s creative process with a SS15 collection that started with the shapes and then added the color, prints, texture, and trademark crafty embellishment, proving the label’s distinct design aesthetic as strong as ever entering into it’s 20th year.

The show opened in a zen-like minimalism, with structural, oversized silhouettes in a neutral palette accented with Japanese details, from the obi-tie belts to kimono sleeves and square-toed flat sandals. Bold extra-long sleeves and asymmetric hems added an avant garde design flair to the looks that otherwise exuded an elegant effortlessness.

Then came the infusion of embellishments, starting in Marni’s signature artful prints, then jacquards, pops of unexpected colors, and whimsical oversized DIY accessories, and finally the florals in a lush visual bouquet of sizes, shapes and styles. From oversized bomber jackets paired with split-hem skirts, wrap jackets tied up over palazzo pants, and patchwork, sculptural ensembles that played to Marni’s mastery of the art, style and cultural mix-and-match, it was a feast for the eyes, with ruffles, mirrors, sequin and raffia rosettes, and graphic prints playing off each other and maintaining the show’s opening simplistic, sophisticate feel.

The botanical runway takeover coincided with Marni’s flower market, kicking off the label’s 20th anniversary celebrations with a one-day pop-up shop where the public could buy blooms wrapped in custom-printed paper featuring the label’s best archived designs, colorful patio furniture designs first debuted at Milan’s Salone del Mobile art and design fair, and Japanese painted pots speaking to the season’s inspiration and the label’s dedicated relationship with global artisans. Castiglioni has promised more Marni pop-ups spreading the brand’s cheery presence to cities around the globe over the coming year, and we can’t wait to see where the brand’s cheerful vibrancy will be popping up next!

About the Author

Sarah Bertness is a Brooklyn-based freelance writer covering the arts, music, fashion and culture. She has a love for all things avant-garde, late night rock and roll, wanderlust, and a good dose of fringe and gold sequins. You can follow her musings on Twitter and Instagram @sarahbertness.