Spring 2013 New York Fashion Week: Thakoon

– By Loren Olson – 


The hummingbird, buzzing between flowers as she samples their nectar, is a fitting symbol for the season. It is even more appropriate as the motif running through Thakoon‘s Spring-infused runway presentation.
Beginning in two dimensions, the bird appears first as a silk print, then raised as embroidery, before finally becoming the woman herself, represented by cage-like overlays. In a whimsical touch—perhaps a nod to the treasures Thakoon’s  wearers pursue—each embroidered beak holds a gold chain. The effect was particularly striking on a black blouse, where two birds appear to be lifting a necklace into place.
Other hallmarks of the season include a variety of floral prints, butterflies, and open lace. These were shaped in silhouettes that often ran to the demure—hems hitting at mid-knee, bracelet length collarless jackets, shaped waists and peplums. Sheer layers took form in mesh, lace, and most notably, giant clear palettes. Through a surprisingly wide range of necklines, one standout was a stiff banded crew lifting away from the shoulder.
The palette—rich blues, yellows, and tennis whites—set off the touches of black. Though the ladylike dresses in a scarf print might seem at odds with the more geometric and asymmetrical looks in the collection, Thakoon cleverly reworked elements like black lace from one section to appear as abstracted graphic patterns in another. It was almost as if he were sampling his own collection, as well as an archetypal image of a woman in crisp, light spring.
Besides the strokes of black—most aggressive as a mesh apron overlaying an otherwise dainty frock—Thakoon tempered the sweetness of the set through a strong brow and thick black patent sandals. With a nude lip and center parted hair, the models took on a certain flapper androgyny, revealing a new sort of chignon only when they turned away.
Loren Olson is a frequent guest contributor to OliviaPalermo.com.   She spends her free time working on Le Magazine, an independent fashion publication.
Photos courtesy of Style.com

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