Olivia's longtime makeup artist and personal brow expert, Andréa Tiller, shares her tips for crafting a perfectly shaped look. beauty — Aug 26
When it comes to experimenting with beauty looks at home, there are plenty we're willing to try. Bold lip colors for a Zoom date? No problem. Smoky eyes for peering out fiercely above our masks? Done and done. However, there's one necessary grooming task that can be a bit more intimidating (especially with professional salons only starting to reopen safely), and that's tending to our brows.
Luckily, makeup artist Andréa Tiller—the skillful hand behind Olivia's naturally fluffy arches for years—was willing to showcase her DIY routine for shaping up and filling in brows at home. "Keeping your brows natural-looking yet maintained is always the key because brows frame the face," she shares, "And for timeless inspiration, I look to Brooke Shields as I find her fuller look to be universally flattering." So, before going in with a tweezer or an eyebrow pencil to achieve #browgoals, Tiller says, "For best results, work with your natural shape and growth pattern—it's there for a reason."
Since the eye area continues to be a big beauty focus for 2020, here, Tiller continues with a step-by-step tutorial covering how to find the most suitable shape for your face, the right product shades, and how to avoid over-plucking. Read on for her do's and don'ts, and then be on your way to creating your best brows yet.
Step 1: First, I brush my brows in an upwards motion using a spoolie brush that comes in a great set from Tweezerman. This helps show which hairs are out of place or need a trim.
Once you have brushed up the brows, look for the hairs sticking out of the natural brow shape. Carefully trim those hairs, and I like using Tweezerman's brow shaping scissors (from the set) to do just that.
Pro tip: If you need a tweeze, I recommend avoiding magnifying mirrors and working in natural light to ensure you don't overdo it. Tweeze only the hairs outside your natural brow line and target any strays underneath your natural arch. Leave the baby hairs that do fall within your natural brow line intact, as this will give your brows a softer look.
Before filling in your brows, determine the correct shape for your face using these simple tricks. Take an eyebrow pencil and hold it vertically, pointing from the middle of your nostril and up to the inner corner of your eye. Where it hits your brow is where the brow should start. Repeat the same process using the outer corner of your eye to find where they should end. As for the arch? The best spot is where the pencil hits the brow going from the middle of your nostril to the outside of your pupil. Once you find these points, lightly mark them with the pencil as a guide.
Take an eyebrow pencil to start filling the brows in, keeping the shaping points in mind. I like using Dior's Brow Styler because it has a finer point, it's retractable, and I also like the shade selection. Generally, choose a color one shade lighter than your natural hair because that allows the product to fill in gradually rather than going too dark too fast. If you are blonde, I recommend a taupe.
To fill, I usually like to start at the arch and work my way to the end of the brow. I apply the most pressure in those spots so that the pigment is more defined, giving a bolder focus. Then, I'll fill in the brow's beginning using less pressure, which offers a less intense look and an overall more natural appearance.
Step 5: Using the same brush from step 1, brush the brows upward again to blend in the pencil strokes.
This step is optional, but take your brows to the next level using a brow liquid liner to create more fine, feather-like strokes. I like using Glossier's Brow Flick, which requires a steady hand and patience, but the results are worth it!
Step 7: Finish by applying brow gel to make sure the hairs stay in place. I recommend using a clear gel, and my go-to is from Benefit.
Voilà! Now you have perfect brows.
Makeup Artist-Approved Brow Essentials:
Tweezerman Brow Shaping Scissors & Brush, $19, available at tweezerman.com
Dior Diorshow Brow Styler, $29, available at nordstrom.com
Glossier Brow Flick, $18, available at glossier.com
Benefit Cosmetics 24-HR Brow Setter Shaping & Setting Gel, $24, available at sephora.com